Painting Factory Paneling
Painting paneling is pretty easy most of the time, and is a great way to brighten up a room with minimal effort. For most people, the lines are not objectionable. I have several rooms in my house with painted paneling.

This subject comes up pretty often, a search in DejaNews came up with about 700 references to "painting paneling". The usual reply from the average home owner is something to the effect "Yes, I painted my paneling, I bought a couple of gallons of 'XX' paint, put two coats on and it looks great!". But for me to guarantee a job such as this, it would have to pass the standard "scratch test". This involves letting the paint cure for a few days or a week, (sometimes more) then trying to scratch the paint off with my finger nail. A well bonded coating should stay adhered to the substrate even when scratched fairly hard.

It's important for a quality job that will last to use a primer suited for this purpose. Many people say that they've used Kilz for this application, I wouldn't, for Kilz is designed to be a quick dry stain block primer, not a primer to stick to old finishes or for that matter exterior work that is directly in the weather. It's also extremely smelly.

When painting factory finished paneling, more than likely, cleaning, priming with a good acrylic primer (Zinnser's 123 comes to mind) designed to stick to glossy surfaces will produce great results. Here's some additional steps we sometimes use to ensure the maximum adhesion to old paneling. Not all steps need to be taken in all situations, unless you are willing to go the extra mile in ensuring the best adhesion. It is quite a bit of work, which may or may not be necessary.

1. Make sure the surface is clean. Don't skip this step, it's the most important. You'll more than likely be cleaning hand grime off. Use TSP according to directions, and let dry a day or so. We usually mix TSP double the recommended amount. Do so at your own risk. If TSP loosens the finish when washing the paneling, then the finish is "dead" (old and dried up) and should be removed as whatever you apply on top of it will not adhere to a substrate in poor condition.

2. Sand the old finish. Most people think sanding is for making the old finish slick. That's just a side benefit from the real task, to cut fine scratches in the surface of the old finish for a good mechanical bond of the primer. Use 120-180 garnet paper. Dust down the entire area before proceeding.

3. Caulk all cracks and putty all nail holes, let dry before proceeding. Once again, once the paneling has been painted, the lines aren't objectionable for most people. But most people are looking for a quick fix to a dull, dark wall. Painting achieves this. If you want a smooth wall, install 1/4" drywall on top of the paneling, or use a heavy backed wallpaper designed to give you a fresh surface for the wall. Good for paneling and old, damaged stucco walls. Some are smooth, and some have a texture.

4. Immediately before applying your primer, wash an area that you can paint in 20-30 minutes with a good deglosser. We use NoSand, pretty potent stuff. Use with adequate ventilation, perhaps use a respirator. NoSand is a mix of various solvents that will degloss the surface and soften it so the primer will adhere better.

5. Apply your primer. The best we've used is an alkyd enamel underbody. An acrylic primer designed to stick to glossy surfaces such as Zinnser's 123, ICI's Gripper or BM's Fresh Start may or may not work in this situation, usually does well. Best to experiment with the scratch test.

6. Apply your topcoat. A satin finish is extremely durable for kids. We use it when customers express their concerns about durability. An acrylic eggshell is fine for most people.

7. Enjoy!
Remember, in most cases, all of these steps need not be taken, only if you're having trouble getting the primer to adhere. Generally washing and priming is all that's required.

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Scott Smith Painting
Phone: 831-438-4198
Ca. Lic. 795360

scott@scottsmithpainting.com